Register Wednesday | January 16 | 2019

Instant Classic

After centuries of exclusion from the world of fine wine, the obscurity of Greek grapes is now their selling point.

Panayiotis Papagiannopoulos leans back from a low table, spiky with half-empty wine bottles, and gestures toward the darkness of the hillside opposite. “Where I live there is an ancient theatre, and it is created exactly opposite the oracle of Delphi, on a hill,” he says. “You can feel when you go there… even if you are a common person without any special sensitivities, you can feel that there is something very important there.” I nod emphatically. Considering myself, spiritually speaking, a very common person lacking in special sensitivities, the statement nevertheless resonates. For even after only four days in Greece I am firmly of the opinion that it is no common place. 

Papagiannopoulos is one of a small number of winemakers at the forefront of what has been described in recent years as a “Greek wine renaissance” that is putting Greece back on the fine wine map after decades—perhaps ...

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